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A Journey Through the Prelude Tasting Menu at Restaurant Sat Bains

There are meals, and then there are culinary pilgrimages. To dine at Restaurant Sat Bains, tucked away on the outskirts of Nottingham beside the River Leen, is not merely to eat – it is to embark on a journey orchestrated by one of Britain’s most visionary chefs. On a slightly balmy August lunchtime, I found myself at the threshold of this fabled establishment, ready to experience the Prelude tasting menu – a compact yet vibrant showcase of the eponymous Bains’ unique approach to modern British cuisine.

The Arrival: Anticipation and Ambience

The approach to Restaurant Sat Bains is unassuming, the entrance concealed beneath a concrete bridge, a fitting metaphor for the surprises that await within. Once inside, however, you’re enveloped by a hushed sense of occasion. The staff, attentive without being obtrusive, guide you to an outside table in the courtyard where you can take a drink whilst you decide on the menu that you want to embark on.

Menu selected (more on that next) we were guided to our table with a difference. I had selected an incredible experience for us – we were dining on their kitchen bench, which meant that we had the whole meal sat on a bench right next to the pass where the head chef (John Freeman) and his team assembled the main course dishes before they were taken away. This incredibly intimate experience allowed us to understand the care and precision with which food of this quality is made, as well as allowing us to talk directly to the team and ask them about their experiences cooking in this legendary kitchen. It was particularly impressive to see how they used CCTV (see left) coverage of the dining tables to co-ordinate when dishes were being collected so that they could plan the arrival of the subsequent courses.

Prelude: A Tasting Menu with Intent

The Prelude menu is designed, in Sat Bains’ own words, as “an introduction, a story in five chapters.” It’s a compact tasting menu—a prologue, if you will, to his longer, signature menu—crafted to distill the Sat Bains ethos into an approachable, perfectly paced meal. Recently I have preferred going to restaurants for lunch time meals, and the Prelude menu is perfect for lunch. Each course representing a careful balance between innovation and comfort, seasonal produce and global inspiration.

To accompany this menu, I decided that I wanted to really push the boat out on the wine front by selecting their ‘Off the Charts’ wine pairing flight (I’d just received my bonus – and what better to spend it on than amazing wine?!). I knew that this was the right choice when I saw the first bottle making its way to me – a bottle of Krug Grand Cuvée (172eme edition). My opportunities to drink Krug have been limited to just a handful of occasions, and each of these has been truly special. We were off to a good start…

Act One: Opening Bites

The Prelude menu began with a playful take on a cheese and onion pasty. We were served a beautiful morsel which seemed to concentrate all those beautiful flavours that you get in that most satisfying and comforting of snacks into one fantastic bite. Alongside this we were served a Japanese set custard that had some chive oil liberally sprinkled over it, as well as some balsamic notes. Very classy, and very clever.

The bread course deserves a mention of its own. Sat Bains’ legendary sourdough (the starter is 13 years old!), served with cultured butter, was a revelation. The crust sang with caramel notes, the crumb had a pleasing elasticity, and the butter was tangy and velvety, melting into each warm slice.

Act Two: Fishy and Funghi Flair

Next came a couple of dishes that were right up there in our favourite dishes of the whole menu. Firstly, a fish dish – a scallop escabeche served with avocado, lime, and coriander. The scallop was absolutely enormous – coming from the waters around the Isle of Mull. Sat served this dish to us himself and he told us that the scallop had been cooked on the plancha, but only on one side to give it some caramalisation without overcooking the beautiful meat. The result was a slight textural edge to the scallop married with delicacy and juiciness. The flavours that accompanied this dish were redolent of a south/central American ceviche, lively, fresh, and zesty, which was complemented by the Basque-style sauce.

To accompany this dish, I was served a glass of 2020 ‘Moutonne’ Chablis Grand Cru from Albert Bichot (served from a magnum). There aren’t many wines that sit in the grand cru designation of Chablis (eight to be exact) and this is one of them. For me, grand cru Chablis is very exciting. You can get decent stuff at village or premier cru level, but I can find them a little tart or acerbic. I really enjoy the richness and vibrancy that you can get at a grand cru level – and they are always more accessibly priced than grand cru Burgundy from further south.

Then came a picturesque little quiche of girolles served with leeks and peas. You can see from the picture that this was a wonderfully presented plate. The shavings of mushroom sat on top of the quiche were quite the sight! I must say one of the stand outs from this plate was the peas – they had such a brilliant texture, full of crunch and vibrancy. I can’t ever remember having peas with such flavour.

The wine with this dish was a slightly unexpected one – a ‘Leirana’ Albariño from Genoveva (Rias Baixas, I didn’t manage to record the vintage). This wine is aged in old oak barrels, something that you don’t often associate with the racy, zippy wines of Rias Baixas. The result was a wine with additional richness and texture that were needed to match up to the flavours of the dish. This was a good example of the benefits of a tasting menu and accompanying wine flights – you sometimes get things that you wouldn’t have selected yourself.

Act Three: The Main Event

The centrepiece of the Prelude is usually a couple of main courses that champion special cuts of meat or fish. On this menu, we started with a lamb agnolotti served with a gremolata, goats’ curd, and a 60-month aged Parmesan. An agnolotti is a kind of stuffed pasta that originates from northern Italy similar to a ravioli. The lamb is a shoulder that is cooked right down; I also thought that the pasta was pleasingly al dente in texture. What I really liked about this plate though was the combination of flavours, there was a herby sauce which contrasted nicely with the goats’ curd and the Parmesan. Sat explained that he has to source this particular Parmesan from a broker in northern Italy, which the older age of the cheese giving it a nuttier and more complex flavour.

For this course the wine offering was a 2009 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the legendary producer Emidio Pepe. Given we were in northern Italy for the food, this felt like a great match. The wine was really textural, with a deep and rich colour. Given its age I was really surprised by how intense the colour was. The predominant grape in this wine is the eponymous Montepulciano (not to be confused with Vino Nobile d’Montepulciano from Tuscany, which is made from Sangiovese of course…!). The wine was deep, expressive, and powerful.

In the interval between this course and the next we were asked to head out to the garden area where we had our entrance cocktail earlier. There was a greenhouse there with some fresh herbs that were being grown for use in the kitchen. Adjacent to this was a pizza oven and we were treated to a small pizza which was topped with a home-made pesto. A little snifter of 2012 Brunello to go alongside it. A nice touch as it allowed us to stretch our legs slightly, and get out of the heat of the kitchen. This video captures a little bit of the experience!  

After this we had a choice where we went – you could have a fish course (wild Cornish bass, served with a red pepper coulis and fennel), which Isabelle opted for. I went, instead, for duck from St Brides served with cherry, olives, and grapes. The duck was dry aged and cooked from cold on the fatty side to help that crisp up nicely. One of the interesting parts of the accompanying elements was some slices of nasturtium which gave the dish a nice, peppery profile.

In keeping with the ‘Off the Charts’ vibe for the wines, I was offered a glass of 2008 Ornellaia from magnum, a legendary Super Tuscan wine made from the classic Bordeaux blend of grapes. I rarely get to drink Ornellaia (I’ve probably had it only a handful of times) and each time has been a memorable experience. This really is a sensual and luxurious wine – you got the benefits of the age from the wine, coupled with the large-format serving which made this a perfect accompaniment to the beautiful duck.   

Act Four: Cheese, Reimagined

Cheese is rarely an afterthought at Sat Bains. The cheese course in this instance was a tasting flight of blue cheeses – showcasing the dexterity and versatility of these quintessentially English cheeses that are eschewed by some, but loved by many. We worked through a range starting at the creamy and lighter end before making our way through to the saltier, richer, and deeper flavours of the Colston Bassett and Long Clawson. There were a few morsels to accompany the cheeses of apple and a kind of compote, but we were in no doubt that the cheeses were the main event.

Classically you match a sweet wine to blue cheese. Oftentimes it will be Sauternes, but here we went with a 2017 Royal Tokaji 6 Puttonyos Aszu. This is the kind of wine that when you drink it you find yourself asking why you don’t drink it more often. Honeyed and perfumed with a sweetness and stickiness that doesn’t go over to being cloying. It retains just enough acidity to balance off against those blue cheeses. Special – very special.

Act Five: The Sweet Finale

To help with the transition from the savoury courses to the sweeter courses we had a transitional course called ‘The Crossover’ next, which featured sweetcorn, miso, and popcorn, As you can see from the picture the popcorn was ground down fine and coated the bowl. It was a mix of sweet and savoury popcorn – which helped with the transitory nature of the course. In the middle of the bowl was a little portion of sweetcorn ice cream which was matched with olive oil and a miso sauce. This brilliant combination of flavours gave the dish a real complexity.

Moving on we had the visually brilliant course called ‘The Garden @ Lenton Lane’ which featured a plate of sweet woodruff, gooseberry, and marigold, served with crème fraiche ice cream, bee and fennel pollen, caramelised grains, and homemade honey. This homage to the most local of produce was really wonderful – the flowers around the honey just made you happy to look at them! Alongside this, the quenelle of ice cream was rich and luxurious with a sweet blackcurrant sauce. A complex plate for all the senses.

With these courses we were served what I think was my first ever tasting of one of the world’s great sweet wines – a 2015 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance. This wine is made from the wonderfully expressive and fragrant Muscat de Frontignan grapes. The nose is full of those Marmalade notes that tell you of Botrytis, as well as some more floral notes redolent of the Muscat grape. On the palate it is long and complex with that beautiful combination of sweet stickiness, and just a hint of acidity to give it a lift.

Our last course was a playful tribute to one of the Bains family – ‘Junior Bains’ who was a much loved rabbit, immortalised now in white chocolate form!

Reflections: Is the Prelude Worth It?

The Prelude tasting menu at Restaurant Sat Bains is, without doubt, an experience that stays with you long after the final crumb has been cleared. It’s an accessible way to sample the creativity and technical brilliance for which Sat Bains is renowned, without committing to the full marathon of the longer menu.

For me, the sheer playfulness and inventiveness of the dishes, the quality of the ingredients, and the attention to every detail, from service to setting, made the meal feel truly special. The menu tells a story, one that is rooted in British terroir but unafraid to venture abroad for inspiration.

Is it worth the journey? Absolutely. Whether you’re a dedicated food lover or simply looking for an experience that transcends the ordinary, the Prelude menu offers a taste of something unforgettable.

I can also highly recommend the experience of taking the kitchen bench for your meal. To be up close and personal to the artists producing food of the highest quality, and to be able to ask questions about their work is an experience that you really can’t beat. It gives you a real appreciation for their craft.

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